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Carl "Ado" Hunnius diary

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Diary of Hunnius


Ind. Terr. sketches

Agency and Mission

of Chey. & Arap. Inds.




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Monday January 10th 1876


This morning woke about 6 o clock had no good sleep as Billy the driver is a rather restless sleeper, the young man being the lover of the big young lady got up at least and made fire in the other room so the kitchen  than was more  coaxing and calling going on to get up. about 7 1/2 o'clock we thought they would be up and rose too, it was very cold but this high wind of yesterday was not so stiff any longer about 8 1/2 we had breakfeast.  Beacon, Cakes eggs coffee and kraut, this Kraut was very  good so the coffee like wise. I changed the fastening strap on Odometer No 1, the left side wheel and can read to-day the running numbers instead like yesterday backward.  Paid for my lodging, supper, Bed and breakfeast $1.50.  we started on our road at 9.40 A. M. it was very cold more so than yesterday,  crossed the Slate Creek


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very good and easy. After being out about half an hour we had to walk or freeze so we walked several miles to warm ourselves, there was a very good road all the way to the Chickaskia River plenty prairie dogs and young green grass we could not take our dinner at the ranch near the Chickaskia River there being nobody at home so we helped us to some corn for the horses and as there was no bucket in the well we had to drive to the Rivers bank what we did, made a fire and warmed ourselves up a little, it was good that I bought some lunch in Wichita as this Ranch was closed we would have had nothing to eat.  The River is not deep but pretty wide, we started at 2 P M after one hours rest to us and horses, poor Fanny the dog had nothing to eat except a few crackers and cheese, made a sketch of our noon camp. From that place we made 10 3/4 miles to Caldwell, a little one Street


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City of about 15 or 20 houses, we stopped at the Caldwell House, the Hotel No 1. we had a good supper, Prairie Chicken Eggs, Potatoes, coffee not good but excellent bisquits and butter, wrote a letter to my darling and brought it to the post office, mail arrives and leaves every day. The prairie to-day was nearly all burned had a room for myself to-night and slept very good, this morning I found a chamber pot and the room carpeted but it must be an awful place to sleep in in a hard winters night. I got up at 7 o clock had to go down stairs back ward the stairs being so straight, after a wash I made the drawing, had a very good breakfeast but no milk.   got some lunch for dinner and a coffee pot so some
coffee and sugar paid 1 Doll. 75 cts for it started at 8.40 A M it being west wind but not so cold as yesterday, at the Hotel was a young Lady in high fashion the whole place looked as good conducted, we walked a great deal passed Whitacker Ranch about one


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[sketch of Caldwell]


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mile after leaving Caldwell on bluff is a lookout crossed Fall Creek, two little beautiful Water falls thence shortly after Bluff creek red sand stone bluffs very curiosly worn out. after being on top of the bluffs, Billy stopped and made me get out to see a sight, So it was to see Caldwell in a distance in front at our feet the bluffs all red and white, it was like a painting it was pretty cold, level prairie from thence good road, plenty prairie dogs and snow birds, much nice green grass about 2 inches long, met a man on horseback, mail carrier at 10.45 the first person meeting us since leaving Wichita shortly afterwards an other traveller on horseback  at 12.35 we  plenty wild Hemp on river no water Billy went nearly 1/2 mile for it, I cooked the coffee and we had Bread, Butter, cold meat, eggs, Pickles, oh it was a regular thing,  west wind still, saw one of the long leged prairie mices near our Camping place, so some big flies we woke with our fire. There is plenty timber mostly Elm on the Creek here. There is an old oven for cooking near by out of brickstones.


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started at 1.00 P. M. saw plenty prairie dogs it was on places a very bad road, met the stage Coach at 1.55 P. M. Crossed the Pond Cr. at 3.55 it was very steep crossing red clay, a beautiful grove of timber and drove to Hopkins Ranch.  This Ranch is also Stage Station it was 12 miles and 656 ft. from Caldwell Post office to our dinner Camp
on Little Pole Cat, and 13 miles and 4596 ft to Hopkins Rch. total 15.5252.  The Ranch pretty large, with stockade


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[sketch of Hopkins Ranch] 


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There are two ladies here also 2 nice little children, a boy and a girl, we had a good supper, excellent beans, good coffee.  There are a great many men here, saw the first Indian near the Ranche, an Osage.  Mr. Hopkins is a fine tall gentleman, with nice address. At  8 ½  oclock we went to roost in the loft over the room. You had to stoop down considerable to go through the door it being only hip high, we made our bed on the floor and the horse blankets so the buffalo robe we had along came very handy. There slept 7 men, the Hopkins included in the loft on the floor, next morning we crept out and washed ourselves in a tub, water frozen, and so hard that you had better not do so if you by chance should be thrown at the place, all the soap went in my beard and there it was, we had a very hardy breakfast and after bidding good bye to the Ladies and Mr. Hopkins we started at 8 A. M. it was cold after a miles ride over very hard frozen and rough ground we crossed the Salt Fork about 800 feet wide the bed, but the stream 275 feet about


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two feet deep and plenty Ice. after crossing we had good road pretty level prairie, much young grass and any amount of prairie dogs, some of which would not even go down in their holes by our passing. At 10 A. M we crossed the 9 Mile, or as it is better known by the natives Wild Horse Creek the North bank of which is awfully steep, red clay banks, the south bank is very easy it is a pretty clear running stream, at 10.30 another stream some water Ice 1/2 inch thick a pretty sharp N. W. wind set in, it was a beautiful day the sun shining and the air just one blue, a very large prairie dog town, must be certainly the county seat or so, it looked very imposing. Made Sand Creek at 11.75 water 3 inches deep gravelly bottom but no wood, nothing in sight as prairie and air, you can see for miles and if you want to see farther just do so, there is nothing in sight what might stop you doing so. At 1.15 P M. another Cr. Spring Creek as I learned afterwards nice running water, from here to Ranch road awful sandy and heavy at Ranch at 1.25 P. M. we travelled 20 miles 2304 ft. to-day There is only one man on the Ranch Mr. Gilchrist


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went to the State as it is here called, meaning Kansas, we took our Mess chest, and found some bread and cake what we had from Mrs. Hopkins I suppose, anyhow from one of the Ladies, butter from-yesterday made coffee on the stove and were happy. This Ranch is a very clean looking inviting place at any rate, the man in charge is very good looking and obliging there are 2 Cows, some pigs, chickens here the whole looks very cheerfull. Mr. Bright is the young mans name (he having the same by rights as every thing in the house looks after his name.) At 4 P. M. we had supper. Mr. Bright invited us to excellent bisquits, potatoes, and fried ham, the coffee with milk was quite a  go. then I went to the Cr. and had a genuine good wash, found a small land turtle, stiff from cold, also a little birds nest which I cut to take with me on return trip, bought for Billy some tobacco 50 cts. about 6 o clock a train, empty, came from, below, i. e. the Cheyenne Agency they were from Connell and Baisby's outfit and all are


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known by Billy my driver, we went to bed, on the floor at 9 ½  o clock, Mr. Bright gave us in addition to our sleeping rigg

a feather bed and some ditto pillows. Woke this morning about 5 o'clock the dogs made a fearful noise. Mr. Bright got up and said it was a wolf at 6 ½  we rose I had a good wash at the Creek it looks like rain or snow, pretty sharp East wind for breakfeast had potatoes cooked, ____ bisquits and coffee paid 2.50 for ______ driver and me, it would have been $1.00 for my person self, last night about 9 o'clock the stage came in an awfull rigging, lumbering, ungainly box of an outfit.  at 8.25 A M. Thursday we started out again after crossing the Skeleton Creek we saw to the west about 5 miles off the first Black Jack as Sand Hills the country was slightly rolling the road very sandy at places, but good, about 9.55 A M the East wind was pretty sharp and cutting we walked a good deal


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thence the road got level found a log chain which we took along, at 10.55 crossed a ravine north bank

of which is awful steep about 30 ft. at least it must be Hackelberry Creek, the road made here a great many bends to avoid the breaks all of which going east, the day was rather a dull one, no sun during our travel, we saw near the Hackelberry 8 or 10 Antilopes, the first game until now.  arrived at Buffalo Spring Ranch at 12.15 noon, the Ranch is also the Stage Station, it is 16 miles 42.88 feet. I made some cold lunch for dinner, Billy being not hungry. This morning, before going out I caught one of the drivers, arrived last evening, looking at Thompson, (so we called a pint bottle given to us by Mr. Thompson the Govt. Agent) I shook my finger at him, he looked awfull bad, about it. There is a lady at the Ranch also a little Boy, a nice looking little lad, which told me all about his books and the hay, he would not have done so but I gave him some apples which were left. His mother, to whom he


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[sketch of Buffalo Spring Ranch]


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 gave the bigest one told me that apples was very scarce around the place, so I should think to as the nearest wood are about 5 miles off. The drawing of the grave annexed I made out of curiosity and to pass the time over, the board reads.
T. Caliway, G. Pond, B. Cock, Killed .By Indians, July 3rd 1874.  May have been freighters, a for the one whose grave we will see tomorrow was lashed to a wheel and burned aJjlve, he was so mangled that he was burried at the spot. The little boy, his name is Forest Neidham, showed me the Springs, which give the name to the place, he is a bright little 5 years old. For supper we had beans  ____ Coffee & bisquits. I had to make for Mrs. of the Ranch, a copy of the drawing there appartments are very nice and clean though mud floor the ceiling and walls covered with mousslin we have been sitting up at the Stage Agents until 10 o’clock slept on the ground this night got-up Friday morning it looks like rain, got up at 7 o'clock, had a cold wash at the spring, though there is a good well, the water is too hard to wash with,, we had a good breakfeast and I did my best at it



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[sketch  of graves


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[sketch of Red Fork Ranch]


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paid 2.50 for me, driver and team, every thing is very dear around here potatoes the bushel $3 1/2. Sugar per lb. 20 cts either brown or white. Flouer per ___  $6.00 Coffee Rio, 3#s for 1 dollar, at 9.30 A. M. we started for the Red Fork Ranch, or Lee & Reynolds, after being out about one mile we came on a beautiful plateau timber far to the south, at 10.40 A. M we came to the Grave of which I was told yesterday evening it is on the east side of the road, just on the edge of it on West side there is a little Knoll of a hill.  the Headbord says P. Henessey, Killed by Indians
July 3 1874. from this place you have a beautiful scene looking to South West at your near breaks and you see little Turkey Creek winding its way.  at 11.15 A M. we came to the first Black Jack tree, it is an dwarf Oak, the stem of which is very black to the east the Sand Hills are thickly covered by them. The wind is getting high it being pretty cold, at 11.35 we crossed Little Turkey Creek, high banks a little stream of water on the south bank of which on West of road


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is the remains of Bakers Ranch which was destroyed by the Indians in July 1874, only part of chimney is standing, here we had to take the Wagon sheet off it was awful stormy and cold, we arrived at 12.30 at the Red Fork Ranch, which had been destroyed in July 74 by the Indians after the men inside fired all there ammunition it was rebuild and is now occupied by a man with name of Jones, it is Stage Station. I wrote a letter to my little wife. The horse, with name of Frank is very sick, coughing all the while, we made the stable warmer for him by hanging the Wagon sheet against it. This is a very nice Ranch large, mud floor, but nicely kept clean, some pictures out of illustrated papers nailed against the posts. There are 3 little cats here,  which fight Fanny all the time, we travelled 16 miles, 415 ft to-day in all from Wichita 135 m. 227 ft. About 4 P M the Stage arrived from Cheyenne Agency at 5 it started North. There were 2 gentlemen and one boy in one of the gentlemen was a german they came from Sill


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I asked him to take one of my cards along and tell Mr. Thompson the Govt Agent, that so far every thing concerning us was all right. With this my letter went along. The stage went off too quick I could not finish the sketch, we slept on the ground, there being no floor, I had made Mr. Jones the Ranchman a sketch of the Ranch


Saturday Jan14, 1876 about 5 o'clock I woke and heard that it was raining and so it did, we got up about 6 1/2 A M. it rained only a little had breakfeast and took the wagon cover out of stable where we put it to protect the horses better now it rained allready with a good will, all at once the dogs marked and we saw a man come in full speed on a horse or mule it was the Stage driver, one of his horses had died on road about 2 miles south of Buffalo Spring Ranch so he brought the coach back took his best mule and as he told us rode like the devil to catch us, to go and take him and his mail pouch he made them


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16 miles in 2 1/2 hours without saddle he was dripping wet, of course I took him in the wagon and so his mail, tied his
mule to our right hand Horse, whose name is Doc. and at 8.45 A. M. we started; awful rain storm and heavy sandy road to the Red Fork or Cimarron river, wood very scarce around here. River 700 feet wide, some sand banks in it water about 2 feet deep channel on south side, banks very easy but sandy __ good road this about 9.5 A  M   at 10 o'clock we crossed a steep deep Ravine with running water, raised  about 20 to 30 feet deep,  at 10.20 A M we crossed King fisher Cr. there being a Ranch a dugout, rain now in torrents, banks of Cr. very steep and slippery plenty wood on both banks, from Ranch to this Creek Crossing is 8 miles 402 ft. at  ____ noon (12) o'clock we were on the Ridge from King fisher Creek you can see the same there being two Twin Hills on it


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 this is 15 miles 3631 from Ranch and 7 miles 3229 from King fisher Creek, at  7 P M we were near a tree which is a small distance east of road in the so called 9 mile bottom this is 20 miles 3551 from Ranch and 5 miles from the Ridge now we had hills all around us with some timber, from 9 miles bottom to Caddo Springs is 4 miles 4422 feet, from Ranch to Caddo
Springs 25 miles 2694 ft. about 1/4 mile farther on we had a beautiful view as large plain opened and there was the Agency with the Mission House and behind this the new post it must be a splendid scene in a bright day the Mission House is 29
miles and 4730 feet from Ranch, to the Post office it must make full 30 miles. I walked to the Post Office to find the correct road to the New Post which was given to me and so we started again in an awful rain crossed the North fork of Canadian


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which is here 150 ft wide and about 2 ft deep the New Post is 31 miles 4958 feet from Red River Ranch we measured and stopped and took last reading in the middle between the Q M. and A. C. S. Store Houses, we made to here from Wichita
Depot 166 miles 5185 feet, from Caldwell Post Office 111 miles 1377 feet.  I found the Quartermaster Lt. Hinkel who gave us a double tent with stove and two beds with 3 blanket each, every thing of us being dripping wet, had coffee and bread at the Cavalry Comp. Mess, and made it as good as circumstances would permit gave the officers in their Quarters a call and at 8 P M went to bed.


Sunday January 16th 1876

Got out of bed at 7 o clock no rain but every thing damp made a few sketches had hash for breakfeast. Got my boots blackened by myself put on a white shirt,  Lieutenalt Hinkel offered me his horse to ride


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which I of course accepted with many thanks it was a bay, spendid animal went with the Quartermaster Clerk to
Darlington, this being the name of the Agency, bought some tobacco, got introduced to Mr. Reynolds the trader, spoke to him about my museum, it will be very hard to get some thing for it, had time to make the two sketches rode home had a piece beef cold for dinner and cold coffee a piece bread. Then I walked over to the old Camp, saw Hospital Steward Schofield and Dr. Steinmetz his wife, baby, had a long talk with him he told me a woefull story about his griefes. about 5 o'clock had coffee and bread, sit here on my box I brought from Wichita and write stove pretty warm Billy asleep Fanny ditto, that stove is a nice concern it takes an old hand to make him go it is very easy to make the thing smoke but burn is another side of the question at 9 o'clock went to bed.


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Monday. January 17" I876

Got out of bed at 6i o'clock had brackfas in Company Kitchen hash, got the wagon hitched up and went to to town, saw Mr. Miles the Indian Agent, whom I gave the letter by Mr. Levi Wilson he showed me the few articles he had and gave me an arrow, we went to his office, just a few minutes before some photographs was given to some Cheyenne women, which had come in this morning, it being ration day, of their husbands and sons now held prisoner by the govement in Florida, who took


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part in the murders comitted in 1874 Those women had on the spot' a whaling, she cried and did awful. She had plenty help on the other squaws and girls, it seemed to me as if the men did not care much though one can hardly tell what an Indians face is about to express. We went over to the Mission and Mr. Miles showed me the New House or addition, on the east, them are all big rooms, high and will look very well when finished There are bathing rooms for girls as well as boys so wash rooms. There are some for their playing, in unfavourable weather, a very large Kitchen so dining room. Then we saw the school
the most interesting to me, on the right to me in two rows of desk a two the boys on the other side the girls all dressed nice, boys in shoes, stockings, dark blue (navy) pants, vest and jackets, they wear, grey velt [felt] hats. The girls have a calico dress a moderate pattern,


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and their hair praited in two strains and tied together, hanging down. —  Miss Lina Miles as teacher, was just bussy to call out the names of the boys, each one having now lost their Indian name and being christianed The Superintendent Mr. Leger was there too. The teacher called for instance David, Mr. Leger had a list, children being numberd, not on their person but the desks seats, he motioned to the boy to rise and say present, which was pretty well understood and pronounced, only with Big Cows, boy it would not work so nice. Mr. Miles showed me the little organ they had also the receiving room behind schoolroom. Thence we went up stairs where there were sick, and sleeping rooms for girls and boys, thence he showed me on a
stairs higher the Superiendent quarters with porch and finer


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view over the surrounding country. Thence he took me to his Offico, which is very large he showed me the store rooms also a large place in the house where they had until now church but from Sunday next it will be in the Schoolroom in the Mission. There was in the old meeting room a pretty sight about 20 Indians had received tobacco (chewing) they had appointed
one to divide, he having about 10 pieces which he had to cut in two to go all around he managed to get a big piece anyhow, he did throw it to their feet they had to pick it up, and went to chew and smoke, they had only one pipe but each took 3 whiffs the
women had to clean and fill, outside there where other squas receiving sugar, coffee, and a coffee mill for the whole, there was papooses with and without dress one in a craddle, a bright child. I gave to the very young mother a dime


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money (10 cts) piece where there was a hole in, and I motioned to her to draw a string through and hang it around her little one, she shook hands with me and seemed very proud, some other squas two especially pretty ones came a challing around, thence she moved with her little one to the other side, where there was some sun, but she put a very clean white piece of muslin over its face for shade; it was more than I expected to find. Enquired in Store after Mr. Reynolds who promised me yesterday something for the museum he being not there, I wanted some matches to buy, they had none, and showed me to the other, Mr. Hoppel's Store, they had them I asked for some Indian work, and a clerk there, as I afterwards found out Mr. Lervine showed me three articles, for which he changed a piece 50 cts. I showed him my Museum papers and he gave me the money back and packed up a lot of other little things


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and as he told me would see me in Leavenworth in spring and if possible bring more I gave him my card and address.
Thence I took Billy, with me to the Mission where I received 2 little moccasins for a doll, they were on them and taken off by little                                   and given to me. Doll is Ca-He-ce, so I got a top and whip of one of the Cheyennes boys top = Oho-an-iso-a, Whip = Nis-ca-hair, boy= On-nath-ha-a  gave the boy a silver time 12 1/2 cts for it. they all like silver. By asking Mr. Leger the Superiententat to show Billy the Girls sleeping room, all nine double bedsteads with one green and one red blanket Mr. Leger saw a pair of girls leggings with the moccasin attached to it. I found them so pretty that I enquired whether she would sell, her mother said yes or nodded ascent I gave 2 Dollars paper and as she was a very promissing girl


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added two silver quarter pieces and motioned to her by signs to have hooks made to them and to polish and wear as Ear
rings, she understood very well what I ment so her mother, who motioned to me by pointing to the girl, thence taking the two money pieces with both hands, clasped over her heart, as meaning to love it and thence holding both pieces on her ears and pointing to me, as meaning as remember, so up to the sun as saying the day. I told Mr. Leger to ask that old Cheyenne Woman about the tops., telling him that I as a boy used one, she motioned that as a little girl she played with one another old woman was asked about through one interperter (Frank Keif.) with the same result, this young man Keif gave me a ring with engravings on. Mr. Leger gave me a piece of Medicine wood, a knife scabbard, so some hair of the only son of Big Cow, a Cheyenne Chief a most powerful build man


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all boys entering the Mission have their hair cut, the boys all weep by the operation as hair is a Sacred article and only parted with, with sorrow, this boy will be next 18th of February 10 years old. We saw also the children in the Messroom, i.e. having dinner it went off pretty well and soon did know allready what forks was made for, Knives they know so spoons. We had dinner (lunch) at the Mess house of the Mechanics of the Agency, all cold and very little, they do not practise to give any
thing to strangers. I had to tell the man in charge that we were very hungry and would feel very much obliged to him, by giving us something to eat, anything, for the love of money. Thence I received from David Keborn, the Mail carrier a

tobacco-pouch for myself for the kindness I had shown to him on Saturday last, by taking him along, thence to the Fort or

       Indian Grave with navy,
New Post again from whence I walked to the Camp


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 to find Lt. Hinkel, who had gone to town or somewhere said good bye to Hospital Steward Schofield, who told me that the Doctor would like to see me very much Dr. Steinmetz being alone, Mrs. S. to town which is called Darlington, Dr. St. gave me a knife scabbard and a pipe, made out of tin, also a bottle with cactus bays for Dr. Lenkhardt, he went over all his grieves again and asked me to see that the hospital would be build at the N.E Corner of the Post on a certain little hill, the N.W. corner would be to dusty and not agreeable on account of the Stables and the main road to Ferry and Water after bidding him good bye, I purchased from McCutcher meat to take along as lunch paid 65 cts. H. a 8 cts. had some cooked for me and Billy for supper, this being the first decant meal of ours at the Cavalry kitchen. Billy feels awful bad about soldiers crop, about 7 o'clock P.M. saw Lt. Hinkel about my transportation and oats for the horses for 2 days


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as Connell & Baissley have from thence feed on the road stored for their teams. Went to bed early.

Tuesday January 18" 1876.
Got up early had my cloves (fur) patched up as the got torn on road, by the Company tailor Wilson had to pay 25 cts. paid, the bill at the Company mess house also for two loaves of bread to Sergt. Seymour of the same Company got my transportation on A.T.& Santa Fe R.R from Wichita to Valley Falls, formerly Grasshopper Falls, and a second one from that place over the Kansas Central, Narrow Gauge to Leavenworth City, received oats for the team and hitched up and started at 8.25 A M. at the store of Reynolds I halted and bought a tin cup, matches and Tobacco (50cts) Mr. Reynolds gave me a silver-mounted bridle, very pretty made and engraved on                       strap was a fixing like a half moon or crescent, a file scabbard also a pair of girls moccasins, all new and very pretty,  Thence to the Mission


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once more where I bed good bye to Miss Miles and others, Legers being out to get wood, took up the mail again and went off at 9.15 A M. it was very stormy from the N.West and very cold, my overcoat being still damp from Saturdays rain made me feel the more chilly, we had to take the Wagon sheet off, the roads very heavy, the horses had plenty work, it was not possible to take compass readings there being no shelter for the wind and hands benumped, at Kingfisher Creek we made dinner camp, I could not make a sketch of the dug out it was impossible, the storm was like a hurricane with much trouble we made a little coffee and had dry bread to it, it being 2 P.M. at 3 o'clock we started again, the Cottonwood trees along the Creek are already looking green so the grass looks just like spring and to-day so cold, at this time heavy rain and snow clouds were coming up and we hurried to make the Ranch but we could not escape


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and had two good showers arrived at 4,15 P.M. at Red Fork Ranch, formerly Lee & Reynolds, the wind houwling and very cold I was quite stiff. It must have been very blowing as we saw Mr. Daniel Webster Jones wearing a hat, though it was a carioius/ looking affair he had to prevent his hair of being blowen of his head. Well I took my satchel in and sat down at Mr. Jones' desk, there being such a thing at that place and wrote a few lines to Mrs. Hunnius telling her my safe arrival here, also my next stopping places on the road with dates and that I hope to be with her and the children on the 25th inst latest 26, if there is no accident on the road, also that I was coming up over Winchester. David Keborn was by this time ready to go, he was to ride it on a horse this time, I gave him a drink Cognac, which had not been opened since my leaving Leavenworth until now, he took a very small sip only, he seems very temperate and off he went, Thence all at once came


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a wagon up and brought a family husband wife and two little girls a small Coach dog and anounced that they would stay

over night, all being half frozen, they brought in matresses, a large box with eatables etc. and crowded the room in general, I did not like it at all, thought to have some of the meat fried for supper. I told Jones a I was alone for a moment about the meal and excused myself as good as I could he took it very, kind and said he would make it anyhow for us. On his own suggestion I told him in presence of all, there being also two herders stoping at the Ranch that I had some meat along and would like to have it cooked, we made a good meal of it. I being very hungry, as the family was going to sleep in Mr. Jones' room, he had told the herders to take his store room and build a fire, we went in too, there veing no stove the fire was build on the ground, but the smoke


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it was terrible, and we had to open the door all the while, to let the smoke out and the cold air in. I slept in my clothing on the ground but could not do much at three

Wednesday January 19" 1875

at 3 A M. I got up and sat by the fire thence at 3 1/2 o'clock I woke the gentleman of the family I lent  of Mr. Jones, Eli Perkins, got one of our candles and started to read but I could not make much made a drawing of our sleeping appartment the men laying on the sacks are the herders, made a candle stick with a piece of wood in the pallisading and read until 6 o'clodk Thence after the family made their own beakfeast we, that is Mr. Jones made another beafsteak for us it was very cold but clear the sun came up in glory after beakfeast over I walked to the sand hills ascented the highest one about 75 feet and looked for the families wagon the driver of which stopped with a train which came down from Agency empty.


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he had said to start with them at 6 A M but I could not see anything of the train there being so much woods an the sand hills. I made after descenting the hill a drawing of the one I had climped up and the surrounding country, now I could hear the teamsters shouting and the family wagon was coming over to fetch them all at one the little girl was not seen, she was far out on the prairie.  I paid Mr. Jones for us 2.50, he gave my a. hair lasso and a fan made out of a turkeys tail he likes to have a drawing of his Ranch with the sand hills a bull train and some mules in front, chickens and showed me the place where he will put up another stove pipe as chimney to let out the smoke of the room we were staying last night, I made the promised to make him one.  At 9»5 A.M. we started I could not take compass readings the grass being to high you could not see not 100


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feet in front and there was another bend in road it being quite enough to read the Odometers, at 11.10 A.M. we were at the Henessey Grave, from here not high grass and I took the angles of the road a train going ahead of us I could see the turns of the road and read longer distances took 23 angles and 24 Odometer readings in 7 miles, at 1 A M. we were at the Buffalo Spring Ranch again Odometers 1) 6314. 2.  6336, on first trip. 1.) 6319. 2) 6328, Travelled 16 miles 643 feet.


We came in time for dinner after which I went out with the Rancher Needham and David Kerbon east over the prairie to the grave about 2 1/2 miles out, the legend on head board is—J. Wils°n  June 18  1873  I tried to find the wagon in the breaks
but could not so I returned and passing the grave I put a card of mine on the head board on which card I wrote " could not find you and went to Ranchei, My lips are all parched and plistered from cold.


[page 56]


It is pretty windy now and chilly but not so cold as this morning we met a great many teams to-day going to New Post, loaded mostly with lumber as there are about 20 teams to camp around the Ranche we concluded to sleep in the wagon pulled the sheet over and made it as comfortable as we could, after supper over Mrs. Needham gave me a piece of Caddo Indian Work a little satchel peadwork for krs. Kunnius. I was quite perplexed about it, but she said I did her the other day
a great favour by making her a drawing of the Ranch. — about 9.P.M. we went to sleep, had to run the wagon against the haystack as a shelter for the wind which was very high and as south west pretty cold now. about 9 1/2  o'clock I heard the Stage coming from south and they changed horses as this is stage station


[page 57]


Thursday January 20th 1876.
Had a good sleep all night, woke several times as Fanny, who was in the wagon on our feet sleeping tried to get as much of the buffalo robe as possible, got up at 6 ½   It was still very windy and cold, this morning I had the first chance since leaving Caldwell to see my face in a looking glass, my lips are very blistered and broken. Mr. David Keborn gave me some Glycerine, to put on. I remembered having seen some more apples in the box, got them, four, and gave them to little Paul, who was so much pleased so his mother Mrs. Needham, Mr. Needham is stepfather to the child.   At 9.5 A.M. we started off again, but before I discharged my bill to Mr. Needham 6 meals for self and driver a 50 cts. Horses 50 cts and two pies, 50 cts for lunch which lunch we had at 1 P.M. at 1.45 we arrived at the Skeleton Creek, or Gillchrist Ranch. I made from Buffalo Spring Ranch to here 90 compass and Odometer readings


[page 58]

[sketch of Skeleton Ranch]


[page 59]

Thursday Jan 13. 1.5608, 2.6618 today 1. 6582. 2. 6590  that will be 6599 revolutions a 13.4  ft or 16 miles 4167 feet travelled, made a sketch of the ranche as seen from East. We met several trains on the road, at the place we had lunch there was a small camp 3 wagons and one of the men told us that 4 of their horses got away and that they did not find them until now, he said to Billy if a certain bay horse would find the way back to Wichita he should put it in a livery stable. The road was very crooked and made a great many big bends, you can not see far, the grass is so high and there are on this part of the road a great many little hillocks which covered the road therefore the many compass readings, at 5 ½  P.M. we had supper had the meat fried I took from the Agency had a little chicken, fried potatoes, Nudles coffee with milk, as they keep two milch cows at this place, pudding, and custard and cranberry pie it was the most


[page 60]


what a man could expect,  the Cisquits were excellent,  There camped a great many teams here, the man what lost the horses last
night came in end enquired but nobody saw a sign of them. At 8 P.M. went to bed in one wagon.


Friday January 21st 1876
Got up at 6 o'clock it rained a little but all the horizon was cloudy. for breakfest we had coffee, Bisquits, butter, Beafsteak, Nudley, fried Potatoes., Milk and Custard and Cranberry pie, bought a package of Tobacco 25 cts. paid Mr. John L. Roedke my bill.  2.50 for self, driver & team and for Lunch, Coffe, Sugar 50 cts.  at 8.15 A.M I started, it rained already in intervalls Took only 18 readings of instruments not quite to Sand Creek it rained in torrents by very strong North west wind it was very chilly, I wanted to put on my coat but I found out that I had


[page 61]



[page 62]


left the same at Skeleton Ranche, well he is gone I wore him since 1869 christmass, and as I wore him pretty badly on the trip the loss is in reallaty a blessing to me. put on my Indarubler coat and felt as good.  The rain came through the wagon cover and cover and our blankets are pretty wet,  met teh other man who lost the horses, he found the mule anyhow, saw three coyotes or prairie wolfes on the prairie tasted the water in the Salt Ford, water very salty. at 1.15 we arrived at Pond Cr. or Hopkins Ranche had travelled 20 miles.  2304 feet.  This  Ranche is Osage Station.  I put the coffee pot on the stove and as I heard  that there was Indians, Kaws or Kansas, camped near by I asked Mr. Hopkins to go with me, it was in a bend of the Pond Creek a ¼ of a mile up Creek two tents, we went in the first, the ld man spoke pretty good english, they are very poor it was him 5 squaws 3 children


[page 63]


in an Indian cradle, got some sinew, which they  value very high some peated ribbons to wear around  the neck some peat chains.  they asked very high prices but I think I go them cheap after all, as I can not trade with them, as a trader with goods or sugar or coffee, two cups of sugar = 1 dollar; after  all is priced  them made lard of skunk and fried skunks in a curious way as the drawing shows they had 5 in this way around the fireplace the kettle was on one pole hanging on a piece of chain, their moccasins are without or nearly so, peatwork.  The old man had a  pair leggings  he asked $12 for it I offered him 7 and tonight he promised to come and talk, a buckskin costs alone 2 dollars, that would be 4 only for the leather.  In the other tent I got a Eagle feather 25 cts and a neckchain with claws bone etc, also a headpiece with a feather attached to it 75 cts.  There was one man and


[page 64]



[page 65]


2 squaws, he being the son of the old man.  There are 15 heads belonging to these two tents, near supper I made for Hopkins a survey of his entire Ranch at supper the Indians came in, U-chie, in front, and all in their very best of clothing, such as they had, it was quite a show, to have the promised talk with Washington, as they named me.  They called Billy “Texas Talk”, he wearing a red shirt and speaks so much, we went after handshaking and smoking to Hopkins storehouse, where there is a stove, set around it, had another smoke out of U-chie’s pipe and talked, bought a horn spoon, 25 cts, a musical instrumental flute reed 1 00/100 and a bow string guard, which guards the arm of being hurt from the bowstring by shooting arrows.  I said nothing of the leggings he wore, it being the ones which I like to get for the museum.  Mr. Hopkins said it seems very doubtful of getting them as it seemed his best.  Made them a drawing


[page 66 & 67]



[page 68]



for Hopkins an large scale of his Ranche also a ground plan of the same.  1 inch = 40 feet.  went to bed in the loft a 8.30.


Saturday, January 22d 1876

Woke early of a curious noise I heard, it came from the Indian camp, U-chie sang his mouring song or “whaling.”  I being told  afterwards by Mr. Hopkins that he lost in the last 6 weeks  9 out of his two tents most children  Some of the Indians were there already to say good morning,” Washington.”  A little boy offered to me a bow and two arrows of his which I took and gave him 25 cts. we had  breakfeast early as I was going away as near 8 o’clock as possible.  Old U-chie did  not come, so I told Mr. Hopkins to go with me over to his camping place and see what I could do, as this was most likely my last chance to get leggings.  I did not spea to th eold man but went to work and sketched the two tents, sure he came and he in-


[page 70]



[page 71]



[page 72]



[page 73]


sisted that I put him and Hopkins on the picture shaking hands, well, so I did; thence he wanted to speak with “Washington,” meaning me, and said, legging 12 dollar or no go,  peat much money, much work, me do on when big which man comes, big Chief comes, 12 dollars, much money, no go.  Well I paid it after all but first I had to get from Mr. Hopkins 12 paper dollars, he refused to take one 2 and two 5.  The museum must take them and make it up with the presents.  Mr. Hopkins gave me a buffalo hair lasso, which is much valued by Indians, about 10 dollars or a good pony.  Also for Mrs. Hunnius a large wolfskin as a matting for the bed  at 8.15 AM we started, it started to rain to, and pretty soon very lively, river very muddy, strong told N. West wind, we expected every minute snow.  at 10.35 AM on Cottonwood Creek I found the screw of  Odometer No. 1 out of its place again, fixed it as good as I could, at 11.30 we reached.


[page 74]


Pole Cat creek where we made lunch it rained only a little now, had much trouble to light a fire, all being so wet, but I succeeded at last, made coffee, ate the last bread from Cheyenne New Post, also one of the boxes of preserves.  Ham, or sausage meat made a drawing of our lunch place, also one of the remains of a ranche near by, there we found a well 25 feet to the water, water very good, which we did not notice on our last being here at this  place, at 12.45 P.M. we started, rain again and arrived at the Caldwell P.O.. at 4.33 P.M.  Odometers 1.10217.  2 10696.1 _ 2.10481.  Traveled today 26 miles 1072 feet.

New Post Cheyenne Agency

to Bed Ford Ranch  = 31.4636

to Buffalo Spring Ranch = 16.643

to Skeleton Ranch  = 16.4167

to Hopkins, Pond Creek  = 20.2304

to Caldwell Post Office  = 26.1072

Total travelled  111.2262


[page 75]


had a good supper and went to bed at 9 P.M.


Sunday 23rd Jamuary 1876

This morning rose at 7 A.M. the wind being pretty stiff from N. West after breakfeast got ready to go, they told me at the Hotel better to wait and see how the weather would turn out, but I thought better to start so after paying for my stay at the place $1 00/100 for myself we drove off.  Being out 2 or 3 miles the wind was so strong that we had to take off the wagon cover to make it lighter for the horses.  It was now in earnest very disagreeable to be out.  I could hardly keep myself protected from the wind which blew in a gale, wrapped up in two horse blankets and the weather cloth at 1.55 we arrived in Wellington, we had started at 8.45 was pretty near frozen to death, crossing the Chickaskia River.  The odometer came into the water.


[page 76]


and at my reading and the other bank I found the instrument perfectly tight frozen up, had a nice ___ to pick the ice out.  I had only the one, as the no. 2 is entirely out of working order.  arrived in time to have some warm dinner after which I looked at the place, it being quite a little town, with a stone court house in which they have church too and one very elegant brick building owned by (Judge somebody) after supper there came quite a crowd in to talk and sit around the stove. and after church still more came in all pretty near frozen to death.  They had a big talk about a bell, to which the county will give 50 doll.  Scrib, if the town raises the amount in cash, all think it a fine thing but they are waiting for the man to lay down the 50 doll bill. and if they ever get the 50 doll. cash  together it seems very doubtful to me wether


[page  77]



[page 78]


it will not take them at least a year and a half to raise the money to buy the rope to ring the bell with.


Monday Jan 24th 1876

This morning I found the windows frozen and everything looked rather very cold and chilly, one thing in particular took my attention in my room this being not less that the Quilt on my bed, it was so stiff and thin that I took my knife and ripped a seam open and I found instead the batting 4 sheets of paper, that is a invention regular Yankee style.  After breakfeast I looked around for my wagon and at the prospect of the weather in general, N. East wind and pretty sharp, before starting from the Moreland House Wellington settled my bill 2 dollars for me and 1 ½ for Billy the driver, at 9.30 got off.  Roads very rough and very


[page 79]


much cut open from heavy wagons about noon crossed the Ne-nes-scah River, much Ice and pretty deep water 150 feet wide, on north bank high bluffs about 1 P.M. we passed through the City of London, 3 worlorn old houses a Hotel in the same condition and an big stable or barn, it is the biggest fraud to call this place London after passing the last house of this big city you have bout ½ mile public square, on east and west no limits at all, then you come to a church or schoolhouse or the two combined under one roof with two privets for accomodation.  All the way high prairie and bunch grass 4 to 5 feet  and very  tall sunflowers road winds strong much and the bends are very sharp and covered by grass and the sunflower stalks.  at 2.55 crossed Cowskin which is bridged the Creek is here well  timbered and


[page 80]


all the country is well settled and the farmhouses look all very neat and comfortable.  at 4.15 arrived at the Bridge crossing the Arkansas River.. 950 feet long much ice in river at 4.25 took the last reading at the Depot Wichita the starting of the measurement.  travelled 30 miles 4261 feet to-day. 

Caldwell P.O. to Wellington 21.3701

Wellington to Wichita Depot  30.4261


or by old trail   55.3808

Caldwell to Cheyenne  111.2262


old trail   167.790

via Wellington   163.4944

Wellington shorter  3.1036


travelled in all wagon  331m 64ft

“             “     “    railroad  446

“            “     “   total = 777 miles


[page 81]


Leavenworth to Valley Falls   36

Valley Falls to Topeka   25

Topeka to Wichita   162



Gave to the Government Agent Mr. Thompson my copy of the letter of instructions, settled with Mr. T. Connell, Billy’s bill 15.10 got at Kaisers barbershop a shave and haircut (50 cts) and went to the Occidential Hotel, after supper I visited Hess & Getty, so Mr. Reimens, Mr. Schaffner and went to bed at 10 o’clock.


[page 82]


Valley Falls 3 ½                   Wichita 4.15

      5.30                  Valley Falls  2.10


[page 83]

[numbers not transcribed]



























[page 84]




6              Topeka Dinner                                                     .75

                Peabody Supper                                                  .50

                omnibus                                                                .50

9              Occidental Hotel, Wichita, Kansas                 6.25

                Lunch in case of delay                                       1.50

10           Hotel near Slake Cr. 2 ml lodging                   1.50

11           Caldwell House, 2 mls, lodging                       1.50

                lunch, coffee, sugar, etc.                                    .25

12           Pond Creek, 2 mls.                                             1.00

                Lunch                                                                    .25

13           Shelelaw Ranch, 2 mls                                       1.00

                lunch                                                                      .25

14           Buffalo Spring 2 mls                                          1.00

15           Red Fork Ranch 2mls                                        1.00

                Lunch                                                                    .25

17           South Cheyenne Agency                                  .25

18           Sergt. Seymore Comp “L”                               1.80

                Lunch                                                                    .35

19           Red Fork Ranch 2 meals                                   1.00

20           Buffalo Spring 3 meals                                      1.50

                Lunch                                                                    .25

21           Skeleton Ranch 2 meals                                    1.00

                Lunch                                                                    .25


[page 85]


                Brought forward                                                 23.90

22           Pond Creek  2 meals                                          1.00

23           Caldwell 2 meals lodgg                                     1.50

24           Wellington 3 meals lodging                              2.00

                Dinner Wichita                                                    .50

24           Occidental                                                            1.50

25           Omnibus                                                               .50

                Breakfeast Peabody                                           .50

                Topeka Dinner                                                     .75





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